As part of that long weekend we made a "pilgrimage" to Sukyiyabashi Jiro - considered one of the best in Tokyo. A documentary "Jiro Dreams of Sushi" was made about this chef's father (now 87) who has done nothing but make sushi for over 70 (?) years. See the movie, if you can! After we saw the film in L.A. We decided we MUST eat at both of the restaurants (son's and father's). It was *the best* sushi we ever ate (Tokyo fish market coming in 2nd).
The meal began with sashimi -- I am not usually a fan of abalone (it is in season now) but this was unlike any I've had before. It was kind of like my tofu experience in Kyoto; before Kyoto tofu I always told people I didn't care for the no-flavor, rubbery substance that was served in dishes in the U.S. This abalone was not tough, somewhat mushroomy and artichoke bottom-like. Really fantastic. We were given a tiny side dish of a darkly colored matter (I thought it was seaweed) but were told it was abalone liver and it was also delicious. My favorite however may have been the bonito. It was seared and smoked and heavenly. I like bonito generally. When I saw the slices of fish he was preparing for the sashimi I was a bit nervous as they were large, and I've had a few past experiences with very large pieces of sashimi that have been difficult to eat, chew, etc., etc. This was creamy and buttery and the smoky flavor was amazing. It was served with a ginger dipping sauce that was fantastic with it.
After the sashimi course the sushi was fairly traditional: flounder, tuna from maguro, to mid-fatty toro, to "o-toro" (honorable), uni (again most amazing I've ever had), ebi (shrimp), squid, clam, salmon roe, mackerel and sardine. The finish was their famous tamago (egg) that was more like cake than omelet -- sweet and a perfect finish to the meal. Along with green tea of course. So, you can tell we were given a large quantity of fish and the pieces of fish were also quite large.
Later in our meal we started talking with some locals (we were happy to be the only non-Japanese there) and when they learned we were living in Kyoto I think they were more impressed (vs. us being a total tourist) and with Ian at the University, etc., etc. The others were quite friendly and it was a super-fun and memorable dinner! We do plan to visit the father's restaurant, also in Tokyo (8 seats) when we are again in Tokyo, at the end of November.
Photo courtesy of Ian Piumarta |
Photo courtesy of Ian Piumarta |
Photo courtesy of Ian Piumarta |
Photo courtesy of Ian Piumarta |
Photo courtesy of Ian Piumarta |
Click on any photo for a larger image